Help me create a good H.O.R.S.E. guide!

[gamer4life27]

Limit Razz is another story in itself. Razz is mainly about two things. One, drawing to make the best hand (as many stud games are considered drawing games). And two, is playing your opponents boards, knowing what was out there, and using all of that to your advantage.

When playing limit razz, you are mainly looking at your opponents’ board. This is because you want to know if you can either truly beat him, or represent that you can beat him.

I say this because in razz, anything can happen. You can start out with the best starting hand possible (3 2 A) and the next three cards you get are K K Q, meaning the best hand you can make at this point is a queen low. And if other people see this, they will bet and take the pot right there without even a second glance at their own board. This is very valuable and key because this way, you can pick up a lot of pots uncontested. And every time you can do this in limit, it’s a precious steal.

[gamer4life27]

Limit Stud is basically the same as razz, in a sense that you look at your opponents’ board more than your own. But it’s not the same as looking at their board and knowing for sure that you have them beat. That is because in stud, the best hand that you can have without any draws on your board, and without anyone knowing is quads. Here is an example:

Let’s say Player A has [X X] 2 and they are going up against Player B with [X X] K.
When all is played out, their boards look like so: Player A has [X X] 2 7 10 Q [X] and Player B has [X X] K A 6 8 [X].

The players turn over their hands, and Player A reveals their hold cards to be 2 2 2, giving Player A trip two’s (they would have [2 2] 2 7 10 Q [2]) where as Player B turns over their hand to reveal a full house, aces full of kings (they would have [A A] K A 6 8 [K]). Player B would have lost a lot of money thinking their hand was good by just looking at the opponent’s board.

Now, granted it is almost impossible to put someone on that type of hand, it is just to show the point that you can not play it like razz. You have to take into account their betting patterns, the person’s playing style, (if this is live) any tells you might have on them, etc.

[gamer4life27]

Limit Stud H/L is not so much of a guessing game as Stud. In Stud H/L, you can see obviously who is drawing to a low and who is drawing to a high (or already has a high), who has a low, and who might have a scoop with their low on board.

A good rule of thumb is that if you see someone drawing for a low, bet your high hand. This is because they are drawing to half the pot. If they hit their low, then you will just get all your bets back. If they don’t make their low, then they have to fold and you take all of their bets.

Another good rule of thumb in any high/low split pot game is to play hands that have the potential for scooping both the high and low pots. If you don’t try to scoop it once in a while (with either just the high and no qualifying low, or the best high and low hand. This goes for Omaha H/L also), then all you are basically doing is splitting the pot to stay even. You either want multi-way action to get more than you invested with either a split, or a scoop.

A scoop is a hand that gives you the whole pot because it’s the best high, as well as the best low.

In Stud H/L, the best hand for this is a Straight Flush to the 5 (some call it the “steel wheel”). This is because it is the nut low (5 4 3 2 A, or 5-low), and a VERY powerful high hand (a straight flush. Only thing that beats it is a higher straight flush).

Another way to scoop the pot is if there is no low out there. This is good if you have a premium/nut high. That is because if there are people drawing to a low hand, then they have to fold in the end because they did not catch anything to split the low half with. Scooping the pot with no low out is another key factor in limit because you gain more than you could have potentially lost in a split. And also, it allows you to win the pot uncontested most of the time.

[gamer4life27]

When playing Limit Holdem in HORSE, you can’t play it like a normal round of No Limit Holdem. Here is one example:

Let’s say it’s folded around to you on the button with A K. The blinds are 500/1,000, meaning the small blind puts in 250 and the big blind puts in 500. You raise to a total of 1,000.

If the small and big blind think you are stealing, then they can either re-raise you or smooth call you. But even if they don’t think you are trying to steal and have a premium hand like you do, then they are getting the right price to call with pretty much any two cards.

After you raise, it’s up to the small blind. There is a total of 1,750 in the pot (your 1,000, the Big Blind’s 500, and the Small Blind’s 250). It would cost him 750 more to call, giving him 2.3 to 1 on his money. With this, he should call with any two cards if he doesn’t put you on an over pair or any one of his cards (meaning if he has K Q, and he puts you on either A K or A Q, then he should fold as a bigger underdog than he should be when calling in this situation).

And the same thing goes for the big blind. Let’s say the small blind doesn’t call and it’s up to the big blind. There is $1,750 in the pot and it would cost him $500 to call. He is getting 3.5 to 1 on his money. With this, he should call with pretty much any two cards, unless he puts you on a pocket pair of his highest card (meaning if he has 10 8, and he puts you on 10 10, he should fold as a HUGE underdog). And if the small blind calls, then there is $2,500 in the pot, and he is getting 5 to 1 on his money! He should call with pretty much any two cards at that point, unless he doesn’t like to gamble.

So stealing from the button isn’t that much of an option. But if we are going to get called down almost all the time by the blinds, then what hands should we play?

Knowing that the blinds are going to be getting the right price to call with one bet, then we should play some “busting hands”. By busting hands, I mean suited connectors, premium aces, big connectors, and pocket pairs (remember, this is basic strategy. You can loosen or tighten up your play according to your table, your table image, your opponents, etc)

You should also keep in mind your position when you raise (yes, I said raise. Any time you want to enter the pot, raise it). If you were under the gun and raised with a suited connector, there is still a full table left to act behind you. Why take the chance of someone smooth calling your bet and potentially out flopping you? Or worse, you get into a lot of trouble by hitting the flop and being beat.

So the closer you are to the button, the more hands you should be raising with. The closer you are to being first to act, the less hands you should be raising with. This is to prevent any potential conflicts that may come up with weak cards.

This also gives you position on some, if not, most of the people at the table. And if you were the last person to raise it, then it represents strength and you can potentially take down the pot on the flop. But remember; don’t get your hopes up too high because everyone is going to get the right pot odds pretty much all the time to call.

[gamer4life27]

Limit Omaha H/L is a crazy game with people who don’t know what they are doing. Many of the people who get into Omaha and Omaha H/L are coming straight from Holdem. They think: “Wow, I get 4 cards instead of 2! I have so many ways to win now!”

Even though this may be true, you have that many plus more ways to lose against everyone else. Here is the best way that I like to put it to the Holdem players.

Let’s say you get ABCD as your 4 cards. You have to use 2 of your 4 cards. That means that you have a potential 6 two card hand combinations (AB, AC, AD, BC, BD, CD). This may seem like a lot to you, but you are facing that many hands per person.

That means that for every person you are facing, you are up against 6 different hand combinations. In Holdem, at a full table of 10 people, the max number of hand combinations you can be up against is 9. But in Omaha or Omaha H/L, if a full 10 handed table all played one hand, you would be up against 54 different hand combinations!

So needless to say, you need to be more selective with your hands that you play. But as many others don’t know this (mainly in the lower stakes), you are going to see a lot of crazy action on all 4 rounds of betting.

When playing Omaha H/L, what are some good starting hands? Hands than have the potential to go high or low. That means that since an A is considered high or low, you should definitely have a combination of a paint card, an Ace, and a low card. And it should also be double suited. Double suited meaning that if you have QKA2, you have the QK of spades, and the A2 of hearts. That would be double suited.

QKA2 is one example of a pretty good starting hand in Omaha H/L. Another is AAK2, AKK2, AK23, etc. Play hands like these so that you have the potential to win the high and low pot for a scoop or to quarter someone.

Another good rule for beginning players in Omaha H/L is the hit it or miss it rule. If your hand hits the flop hard, then you should stay in. If your hand misses or doesn’t hit it that hard, then you should fold it. Reason being is because of how many hands you are up against. More times than not, the best high hand will go to the nuts, second nuts, or some pretty high hand. And the low hand is going to go to someone who has the lowest cards for the nut low.

Now this is not going to happen EVERY time, but it is going to happen most of the time. Remember, per person, you are up against 6 different hand combinations. If you were playing Holdem against 6 people, wouldn’t you think one of them hit the flop pretty good? The same would apply to Omaha H/L.

[gamer4life27]

Playing any stud game, you are basically playing a drawing game. Razz is no exception. You can start out with the best starting hand possible. And when you get down to 6th street, you have a pair of kings showing. Now, given that if you have a high pair you should just fold it, but some pairs are actually good to play. Let me explain.

Let’s say you start out with a 2 showing, and your two hole cards are an A and a 3. You have the best starting hand possible. You get down to 4th street, and you get a 3. You just paired up your three, what do you do now?

Well, if you were smart, you represented massive strength on 3rd street by completing/raising. No one can know for sure what your down cards are. All they can do is guess by the way you are betting. And if you continue to represent strength once you get that 3, then people will think you have not paired up and will put you on a monster of a hand.

Another option is to chase for another card. That means that you slow down your betting to just checking/smooth calling to see another card. After all, this is a drawing game. You get a total of 7 cards, and you have to use 5 of them. If the cards come just right, you can make it look like you have a monster on 5th street when really you have a pair and are still drawing.

But be careful though! If you draw too much, then you are just giving away precious bets that are very valuable in limit games. You don’t want to be stuck gambling with one or two bets left in this type of game just because you were drawing too much.

So to put into clarity what I am explaining about pairs in razz, here is an example:

Let’s say that you start out with [2 3] 4. Meaning that you two hole cards are 2 3, and your card face up is a 4. You look around the table with 7 other people in it and see the following up cards (from left to right): K, 7, 10, 5, A, Q, 6. With this set up, that means the K would have the forced bet of the bring-in. The action folds fold around to the 5 who completes the bet. It folds around to you and you re-raise, showing strength that you can beat their 5-low draw at best. The K folds, and the 5 smooth calls.

4th street comes, and gives you a 3, and your opponent a 10. Now, since you have the best hand showing at the moment, you have the first action. If you decide to check, then it shows weakness. It might give him a feeling that you may have paired up. But if you bet, it shows that you still have a really strong hand and he might fold for two reasons. One, he is thinking he is drawing against you (He thinks you might have a better hand than him at the moment, and remember, you don’t want to draw too much. Only when the opportunity is right), and two, he got a high card. Get too many of these, and your chances of winning the pot are slim to none.

For this example, lets say that you check and so does he. 5th street comes and gives you a 6 and him a 7. You have [2 3] 4 3 6 and your opponent has [X X] 5 10 7. You now have a pair of 3’s with a 6 low draw. You can get either an A, or a 5. And since you have the best hand showing on the board, you have the first option. Now you can either check and draw at another card, or bet and try to scare him out of the pot.

With 4 3 6 showing, you have a pretty scary board, especially since you re-raised him on 3rd street. If you raise, you might just win the pot right here. He would have to catch perfect, perfect if he thinks you have a made low already to beat you. And if not, you could still beat him while he is still drawing. But again, let’s say that you both check it down to 6th street.

6th street comes and gives you a 6, and him a J. Now you have [2 3] 4 3 6 6 and your opponent has [X X] 5 10 7 J. Since you have a pair on board, and pairs are no good, the option goes to your opponent to make the first action.

Now he sees your pair on board, but he also sees 3 other low cards. You could have a made low hand already and are slow playing him. Plus, his board isn’t looking too good either. At best, he has a 10 low drawing to a 7 low. Given this, he checks.

And for the sake of the example, let’s say you check because you are afraid to bet with two pair.

7th street comes face down. You look down and you see a 5. You now have [2 3] 4 3 6 6 [5] (the numbers is []’s mean your opponent can not see them as they are your down cards.) and your opponent has [X X] 5 10 7 J [X]. Now lets assume the worst and say your opponent as A 2 3 as their down cards. Given this, the best low cards he can make are A 2 5 7 3. Arrange them from highest to lowest, and we get 7 5 3 2 A, giving him a 7 low at best.

And let us arrange your cards in the same fashion. You have 2 3 4 3 6 6 5. Now you may think that you have two pair, but that is wrong. You can get ride of one of your cards to not make it a pair. So instead of having a pair of 6’s, you can use one of those 6’s and the other is your 1 of 2 cards that you will not use when making your hand. Given this, you can get ride of two of your cards that make your two pair (one 3 and one 6).

Now, you have 2 3 4 6 5, with your other 6 and other 3 not being used. You arrange them from greatest to least, and you get 6 5 4 3 2. You may think that you have a straight, but remember, straights and flushes don’t matter in razz. So your hand is a 6 low.

This means that even with your pair on board, and even with having two pair, you have 6 low which beats his hand of a max of 7 low.

An easy way to figure out your hand at the end of it is to take your highest two cards, and remove them. If you have any pairs, remove one of the cards that make up that pair.

Another basic strategy in razz is going up against the bring-in.

Let’s say that it’s an 8 handed game. You have [K Q] 5 and the bring-in is to your left. This means that you will be last to act. Now, let’s say it’s folded around to you. The bring-in has a K showing.

Normally, you wouldn’t even think about playing this hand against an opponent or two. But in this case, you should raise. Why? Simple, it is almost never correct to defend your bring-in bet in razz. Even if he had A 2 as his hole cards, he doesn’t have that good of a hand to play with in the first place. So since you come in for a raise, he is practically forced to fold, and you take one round of ante’s and his bring-in bet.

In limit, every time you can do this it is a VERY valuable steal. It gives you that one extra bet and gives you more room to wait for better spots in the next few stages.

When it gets down to heads up, you will see this constantly. The person who has the bring-in will almost always fold to the opponent because they will raise with the lower door card showing (door card is your first card face up).

[gamer4life27]

Stud is a little bit different than razz in that you can defend your bring-in bet if you would like. This is because you could have a high pocket pair in your hand, you could be rolled up (meaning you have three of a kind on 3rd street), you could be 3-flushed, or any number of hands that would make you defend your bring-in bet.

But you should still always raise when entering the hand to make the bring-in bet have to make that decision. The majority of the time the bring-in will not have a very strong hand to defend with. Otherwise, they would complete the bet instead of bring-in (in online play).

In Stud, not only are you trying to keep track of all the dead cards out there to see what cards are live that you need, your opponents, etc., but you are also looking at individual boards. Each board gives you clues and insights into what the person might or might not have. These all come with any tells you might have on the person, but a person’s board plus their betting patterns speaks wonders.

As like razz, if you can represent a strong hand, do it. But just like razz, you might get called down with an actual hand. So as in any limit game, it is extremely hard to pull off a bluff. And let me restate again, once you move up in limits, you will be able to pull pff more bluffs than at the lower/micro stakes, but they are still limited.

So what cards should you be playing to get a hold of the basics in Stud? High split pairs, connecting cards (for example, [10 J] Q, or [Q K] A, or [6 7] 8), being rolled up (meaning having trips on 3rd street), and 3 flushes.

When choosing your starting hands, you have to look around the table to see what cards are there that you need and which ones you don’t. If you start out [6 6] K, and you two 6’s and two K’s out face up, would you seriously want to play that hand? You are drawing to one king to make two pair at best with no other draws. And if you start out with [10 Q] A, and you see a lot of high cards out that would either pair you up or make your straight, then why play it? You are only throwing your money away to draw at dead cards.

Picking your hole cards carefully is a crucial element in stud. Sometimes, you also react to how the table has been playing around the bring-in bet. By this, I mean that if they are playing tight on 3rd street, take advantage of that. Remember, every time you can steal in limit it gives you that much more room to play with.

If they are playing lose and aggressive from 3rd street on, then you should tighten up your own game because if you play too many pots with too many people in it in a drawing game. So picking and choosing your battles is key.

Another aspect of stud is representing strength. Just like in Razz, you can represent strength when that was not what you were drawing for. Let’s say you start out [Q K] A with two clubs and the A of clubs was showing. You represent strength on 3rd street and just get called. 4th street comes and you get a 3 of clubs. Now, you can either check it to get another chance at a drawing card, or you can represent strength displaying to others that you might have a straight draw and a flush draw and picked up the flush draw. And if you continue to represent strength on 5th street when another club gets added to your hand, people will think you have the flush when really you are still drawing.

So in a sense, it is like Razz in the fact that you can represent strength in places where you don’t. When these instances occur, these are the rare times you will be able to bluff. You will be able to make people scared of you just by how you represent your board and that is key to any stud game.

[gamer4life27]

When playing Limit Stud H/L, you have to take into account the people who are playing the high hand, and those who are playing the low hand. This isn’t as difficult as it seems, but knowing when you beat by a scoop, or someone is drawing to a low, then you have to take the actions necessary in order to keep as many bets as possible.

When playing Stud H/L, you have a little bit more room to play hands that you would with just stud, or just razz. Since it does combine both essentially (well, kind of), then you can play either razz hands, or stud hands. Of course, since it is High/Low split, you will be playing for two pots. So what is the best way to make money off of this game? There are a few ways.

The first one is to notice those who are drawing to a low. If there are a lot of bets in the pot, and it’s just you and someone else in the pot and their board reads [X X] 4 8 K Q, and they have not been raising, then chances are that they are drawing to the low. They will have to catch their miracle card on 7th street in order to just split the pot and get all of their bets back. This is key when you are heads up with someone who doesn’t have a made low hand and is still drawing. If you have a semi-premium like a pair, or something of the sort that wouldn’t hold up normally against someone else who was going for the high, yet you are heads up with the person drawing to the low, raise the pot every chance you get.

This is common sense for two reasons; One, because you have the best high hand, and the second one is that they are drawing to a low and might not have made it on 7th. If you keep betting into a person who keeps calling to draw at half the pot, then they will either have to call your bet on 7th to split it and you get no more profit that if you had checked, or they have to fold knowing that you have something better than then with a busted low and you get all of those bets they kept calling with. Either way, it’s a win/win situation for you. Unless they are drawing to a scoop.

As you may know by now, a scoop (in high/low split pot games) is when one hand is strong enough to take the high half, and low enough to take the low half. In Stud H/L, you want to play hands that have good high potential or good low scoop potential.

In Stud H/L, you do not need your same low cards to be used for the high in a scoop (just like in Omaha H/L). So a good scoop could start out as a high drawing hand, and end up as a low and a high. Let’s say you start out with [A K] 4 all spades. You then get the Q of spades. You have a good high drawing hand. Flush draw with a backdoor straight draw.

But let’s say you get a 2 of diamonds. Now you are on a backdoor low draw, back door straight draw, and a flush draw still. The one you really want is the backdoor low and flush. This would give you a great scooping hand so those who are drawing to either the high or low will have to yield to you. Either that, or lose a lot of bets to you.

Another great thing about Stud H/L is the ability to spot those who have busted draws. And in this game at the beginning levels, there are a lot of those. If you see someone drawing to a high hand, and you have a made high hand, keep betting. It is the same thing as if you see someone drawing to a low draw. If you keep betting and they don’t hit, then they will either make a desperation call with a lower high because of all those bets out there, or fold and giving you all those bets that they called off trying to chase.

This is the basic hit it or miss it strategy for any stud game. Bet with your high hands, bet when you see someone drawing, fold when you don’t have a hand. And it goes for any stud game as basic strategy, for limit, pot limit, or no limit.

[gamer4life27]

When playing tournament HOSRE, you have to take into account switching gears. Like any tournament, you have to know when to turn up the aggression, when to wait for you spots, etc. But unlike regular No Limit Holdem tournaments, HORSE has 5 different games. Meaning you have to switch up your gears every time you switch a game.

So not only are you changing gears according to the blinds, according to the number of people in it, and according to your stack, but you are also changing gears according to which game you are playing.

In regular No Limit Holdem, you can abuse the bubble period by being hyper aggressive, putting pressure on the shorter stacks, and building a big chip lead to make it further into the money. But it is EXTREMLY hard to do that in HORSE in the low limits (will cover more on how to abuse the bubble period in tournament in the advanced strategy) because they do not have this mental thinking. They are playing each game individually, not thinking about the bubble period as much as higher limit players would, not thinking that even though you are getting 10 to 1 odds on your money that if your beat you should fold.

So abusing the bubble in a tournament HORSE isn’t as much in the question as regular No Limit Holdem. Now, granted you will get those few tables in which you can build up a big chip stack according to which game you are playing, how you play it, and how you are perceived at the table. But the majority of the time, the short stacks won’t get involved in a lot of pots and it will come down to who takes the first bad beat to burst the bubble.

But how do you get to the bubble in the first place? That is a very good question. You can do that in any number of ways.

One way is by playing tight/passive and using basic HORSE strategy to get you through each game with a little profit. This means you will more times than not, yield a medium/short stack when it comes time for the bubble, and you will be a victim to the bigger stacks and luck more.

Another way is to play it like you would play basic strategy HORSE, but instead, be slightly more aggressive and you are playing position more. This way, you can try to steal some pots away from others, be perceived as the bully and get paid off with your big hands, and be able to build a nice big stack early on and keep it until the bubble is around. Once that happens, you can either put pressure on the short stacks, or just wait it out until the short stacks take each other out. Well, it’s either build up a big chip stack or bust out early. But if you are doing it right, then more times than not you will build up a big chip lead.

So all in all, there are many ways to play a HORSE tournament. It’s all about your reads, your table image, the cards that fall, and what type of tournament it is.

Let’s say you are playing a satellite tournament. The bubble is a VERY crucial time in the tournament because that is potentially the end of the tournament. When playing satellite bubbles, people tend to play tight no matter if you are the short stack, chip leader, or average stack. This is because there is no need to try and build up a big chip lead once the bubble is broken. But there is reason to make the short stacks even shorter. So people will once in a while do this and it’s a good thing. Because if you are putting pressure on the short stacks who are that close to the money, they will wither under the pressure and become less and less of a threat and more and more of a valuable person because they will be so short stack that they will bust out more times than not due to having to be all in so many times in order to just survive.

Another thing about the difference between satellite bubbles and regular tournament bubbles is the combat between average-vs-average, large-vs-average, large-vs-large, and average-vs-large stacks. The main difference between satellite and regular tournament bubbles is that when you are playing in the bubble for a satellite HORSE tournament, these combats hardly ever happen. That is because there is a sort of unspoken alliance against the stacks to gain up on the short stacks to wither their chips away until they all make the money.

However, if you were playing a regular HORSE tournament bubble, then you can turn up the aggression if you want to against everyone else, not just the short stacks. Many people believe this is the best time to accumulate chips from others, especially short stacks because they all want to make the money. If you are able to accumulate chips during the period, then by all means continue to play in this fashion. The more chips you accumulate in a tournament, the better chance you have at surviving and hopefully winning the whole tournament.

The last thing about basic tournament HORSE is the difference between the ante games and the blind games (stud games v. the flop games).

In Holdem, if the blinds were 500/1,000, then the small blind puts in 250 and the big blind puts in 500. That means for every round (let’s just say there are 9 people for this and the next example) of poker, you would pay 750 in tournament chips.

Now, let’s compare that to a round of Stud at the same limits. The blinds will be 500/1,000 with a 100 chip ante. With 9 people at the table, and assuming on average you will have one bring-in per round (bring-in for this instance will be 150), you will have to pay a total of 1,050 in tournament chips.

So in flop games, you will pay less if there are 7-9 people in the hand as you would a stud game. But what about the 2-6 person hands?

In Holdem with the same example above, you would still pay a total of 750 in tournament chips per round. But in stud in the example above, with 6 people in the hand and an average bring-in of one bring in per round, you would pay a total of 750 per round (600 in ante’s and 150 for one bring-in). With 5 people for stud, that’s 650, 4 people that’s 550, and so on and so forth.

Some places will not do a 1/10 of the Big Blind ante for stud games, but instead, do a 1/20 of the Big Blind for stud games (or 1/10 of the small blind). In these games, you will have WAY more room to wait around and pick and choose your spots in the stud games that you would in the flop games.

[gamer4life27]

Unfortunately, this post isn't completed yet. I am always open to any suggestions on this potential, or any posts that I have made up until now.

[gamer4life27]

Unfortunately, this post isn't completed yet. I am always open to any suggestions on this potential, or any posts that I have made up until now.

[gamer4life27]

Unfortunately, this post isn't completed yet. I am always open to any suggestions on this potential, or any posts that I have made up until now.

[gamer4life27]

Updated to Basic Strategy for Limit Stud.

[C8H10N4O2]

Nice work. I'm impressed you've taken the time to write all this out.

[gamer4life27]

Thanks. It's mainly me writing this all in my down time, but I figure why not help out the poker community play HORSE. And since such a LONG post is such a small fraction of HORSE, it will show the complexity and mind needed to play it. And if you can play it successfully with this guide, then two things were a factor. One, this guide, and two, it shows you have the poker abilities to succeed in any enviornment.

Plus, I love this game, so me writing up this guide is also getting others to love this game as much as I do by teaching them the basics.

[gamer4life27]

Updated to Basic Strategy for Stud H/L.

Sorry I havn't been updating it as often as I have been, but this is very time consuming. Any help is GREATLY appreciated and any feedback is also.

[gamer4life27]

Updated to Tournament Strategy.

Any help with cash game and advanced cash game strategy is much appreciated. That is because I havn't played that much HORSE cash game online. I have played dealers choice live cash games, but not that much HORSE. So again, any help in any one of the limit cash games is much appreciated. I will be working on the advanced tournament strategy in the mean time.

Hope this guide has helped some people so far.